This pin is akin to the VIN pin, or even the barrel jack, on the Arduino Uno. If you have a supply that's greater than 3.3V (but less than 12V), you'll want to connect that to the RAW pin on the Mini. Or you could use a wall power supply along with a barrel jack adapter. If you want something that matches the compactness of the Pro Mini, a battery - LiPo, alkaline, coin cell, etc. Pick a power source that suits your project. The Pro Mini doesn't have a barrel jack, or any other obvious way to connect a power supply, so how do you power the thing? The most important factor in any project is what's going to power it. That said, don't let the slower speed scare you away from using the Mini 8MHz is still plenty fast, and the Mini will still be capable of controlling almost any project the Arduino Uno can. We put a slower resonator on the Mini to guarantee safe operation of the ATmega. The Pro Mini 3.3V runs at 8MHz, half the speed of an Arduino Uno. This means that if you've got peripherals that only work at 5V, you might have to do some level shifting before you hook it up to the Pro Mini (or you could go for the 5V variant of the Pro Mini).Īnother major variation from the standard Arduino lies in the speed at which the ATmega328 runs. Unlike the Arduino Uno, which has both a 5V and 3.3V regulator on board, the Mini only has one regulator. The first glaring hardware difference is the voltage that the Mini operates at: 3.3V. The Mini packs almost as much microprocessor-punch as the regular Arduino, but there are a few major hardware changes you should be aware of before you start adapting your project to the Mini. Comparing the size of a standard Arduino Uno with the (aptly named) Pro Mini.
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